Help With Cats

Nighttime activities are the norm for nocturnal animals such as cats. Given the choice, a cat would sleep all day long and then about eight or nine in the evening, she would get up, stretch, scratch, eliminate and go about the business of being a cat. Cats are most active from middle/late evening to the early hours of the morning. The only thing wrong is that the cat’s activity schedule is 180 degrees out of phase with yours. All that needs to be done is to change your cat’s working schedule from night-shift to day-shift. This is much easier than it sounds.

You cannot expect your cat to sleep 24 hours a day. He needs to play sometime. If you find his nightly play sessions bothersome, then make sure your cat plays earlier. If you do not provide him with some kind of daytime activity, he will spend the day asleep. Rather than letting your cat snooze all evening while you are watching Oprah or Jeopardy, turn off the tube, get down on the floor and play with your cat. Tie a feather or piece of crumpled paper to a length of string and run around the house dragging it behind. Train your cat to climb his scratching post; train him to fetch and run back and forth between you and a friend. Visit your local pet store and look for new and interesting toys for your cat. Make toys of your own. Most cats have a wonderful time rolling around inside a large, open paper bag or box sprinkled with catnip. The “Cat Dancer” toy is also extremely appealing to most cats. Try to tire out your cat early in the evening. This will greatly increase the likelihood that he will sleep at night.

The more regular you make the cat’s new routine, the quicker he will adjust. Schedule feedings and playtime at regular intervals that are appropriate for the schedule you wish your cat to keep.

Anytime during the day or evening when you see your cat sleeping – wake him up! Gently be a pest just like he is towards you at 3 in the morning. Don’t let him sleep. Insist that he play with you now. In 10 days to 2 weeks your cat will sleep all night long because he has been sleep deprived during the day and because he is content that his needs are being filled. It may take 10 days to 2 weeks to reset kitty’s internal clock so don’t be discouraged that during this time, even though you are doing every thing right, he will still automatically wake up or think he wants to play in the wee hours of the morning. Just wait it out. If you give up too soon, you will have to start all over again.

After you have provided an enjoyable and acceptable outlet for your cats stir crazy periods, it is time to teach him that bothering you by jumping on your face or meowing outside the bedroom door is one big mistake. Each time your cat bothers you, give him a quick squirt with a water sprayer that is kept on the bedside table. Use only plain water in the squirter. After only a couple of squirts, your cat will get the idea. If he is meowing outside the bedroom door, first reach for the water sprayer, quietly get out of bed and creep towards the door, then suddenly fling the door open, squirt the cat and then immediately shut the door. Try to stay alert for five minutes, waiting by the door with the water sprayer ready in case of a second attack.

Some cats actually enjoy being squirted in the face with water. If this is your cat, then obviously it’s silly to use a squirt bottle. Try to think of something the cat doesn’t like, such as a loud noise or a blast from a canister of compressed air used to dust of camera lenses. Often just the sound of the hissing air sends the cat fleeing.

If you think you can use the sneak attack portion of training without providing your cat with an alternative outlet for his activity needs, you’re in for a big, unpleasant surprise. Your cat will become frustrated and maybe even angry. You will create a problem far worse than the one that exists. Frustrated, angry cats often urinate all over the house and indulge in destructive behavior. So . . no cheating!

What is Spraying?

Some cat owners are familiar with this scene: the cat backs up toward a vertical surface, holds up its tail and sprays urine in several short bursts. That cat is not simply urinating outside his litter box, but rather marking territory with urine. The difference between regular urination and spraying is in the position and choice of location – when urinating, a cat uses a squatting position on horizontal surfaces.

Spraying is not a litter box problem. A cat can have a spraying problem while at the same time properly using his litter box for defecating and urinating. The distinction is important – spraying has different causes and needs to be dealt with differently.

Please note: cats may suffer from medical conditions that make them urinate outside the litter box. If you encounter any problem that involves urinating outside the litter box (spraying or otherwise), always consult your veterinarian! Some of these conditions may be life threatening if not treated in time.

Why Do Cats Spray?

Cats are territorial creatures. They may use a variety of signals to mark their territory and set clear boundaries to other cats. Feline marking codes include scratch marks, scent rubbed off their skin, uncovered feces, and urine sprayed in strategic locations.

It is perfectly normal for unaltered males to make territorial claims by spraying. This behavior begins with sexual maturity and is triggered by hormonal changes. With time, however, it can become an inherent part of the cat’s behavioral repertoire.

Females in heat also tend to spray. This is apparently a form of announcement. The female lets the males in her vicinity know that she’s in heat by releasing special scents in her urine and spraying it in key locations.

Spraying can occur even with neutered males and females. Some people prefer to wait and neuter a male cat after he has reached sexual maturity. By then, spraying may become a fixed behavior – the cat will spray simply out of habit.

Spraying is connected with territorial marking. A cat may sometimes begin to spray when he or she perceives a territorial threat. This threat may be a new cat or dog, or possibly feral cats that come near the house. Often, the threat is less obvious – the cat is generally insecure, or is overstressed for some reason, and reacts by spraying.
How to Deal with Spraying

There are several things you can do to try and solve the problem:

* The first thing you should do is have the cat examined by a vet. Any problem that involves changes in urinating habits may indicate one of several medical conditions that need immediate veterinary attention. Further actions should be taken only after the vet gives your cat a clean bill of health.
* If the cat is unaltered, you should get it neutered as soon as possible. In many cases, this will completely solve the problem.
* If you suspect that the reason for the spraying pattern is some perceived threat from another cat or dog, analyze the problem and try to accommodate your cat with the space and privacy it needs. If the problem has to do with cats that are outside the house, you should minimize your cat’s exposure to those cats.
* Sometimes spraying is a reaction to general stress not necessarily related to territorial issues. You should try to lower the cat’s stress by maintaining routine and keeping his environment relaxed and calm.
* Never punish your cat for spraying. Never hit the cat or rub its nose in the urine. Cats cannot be taught by punishment. In fact, punishing the cat will probably cause him more stress, thus making the problem worse.
* The smell of urine may encourage the cat to spray again on the same spot. You should clean the stain thoroughly by using special products that completely neutralize any odors rather than just covering them up. Avoid products that contain ammonia, since these may actually remind the cat of the smell of urine.
* There is a special product called Feliway, which can be very effective when dealing with problem spraying. Make sure you read all the instructions and use it properly to get the best results.
* If the problem persists, try to consult an animal behaviorist. Spraying can be a difficult problem to solve. It’s better to call in an expert quickly rather than let the problem get worse. Your vet can usually refer you to a local cat behaviorist. In some cases a behaviorist or a vet will recommend a course of medications to calm the cat down and reduce its stress level.

Cats are fastidious animals and they groom themselves several times a day, particularly after eating. They wash with their tongues, which have rough surfaces that can “comb” and separate the hairs while distributing saliva to loosen particles of dirt, (or food particles, after eating).

Although cats are extremely agile, there are areas of their bodies which their tongues simply cannot reach, including their ears, nose, the back of their heads, and the area around their mouths just outside reach. For these locations, they use a front paw as a sort of a “washrag.” They first dampen it by licking it, then wipe the moisture from the paw onto the area to be cleaned. They will perform this ablution several times in each area. Finally, when they are finished, they will clean the foot they used.

The next time your cat eats, watch him closely and you will witness the entire operation. Washing up after eating is another lesson we humans can learn from cats.

Scruffing is one of the best ways of discouraging undesirable behavior in cats, as it is one of the ways mother cats discipline their kittens. Learn how to scruff your cat to train him properly and effectively.

Scruffing should be reserved for especially egregious behavior such as physical aggression toward humans or another cat. I much prefer it to the common practice of using a spray bottle, which often results in a drenched, angry cat. Since the cat associates the spray bottle with the person holding it, he will only continue his misbehavior when you are absent.

Here’s How:

1. Firmly grasp the scruff (loose skin at the top of the neck) of the cat. It should be understood that by “firmly,” I do not mean to grab the cat roughly. The idea is to establish yourself as the dominant one, i.e., the “mother,” not to be seen as another aggressor.

2. Firmly press the cat down to the floor while sharply saying “no!” Again, be firm, but not rough with your handling of your cat. If you know how to make the sound, you can preface your “no!” with a hissing sound, much as the mother cat would do.

3. Hold the cat in that position until you feel and see him relax his muscles. Some cats will visibly relax, as my Jaspurr, pictured here on the right, does. While you are holding him, speak softly and calmly to him: “You’re my good boy.” “I love my kitty.”

4. Release your hold on the cat, then pet him and tell him “good boy.” The idea is to discipline him without withholding your love. Jealousy is often the motivator for cats’ aggression. The dominant cat in a household may always be looking out to protect his or her status as “top cat.” Scolding him after the fact serves no purpose except to reinforce his anger.

5. If the precipitating event to the aggression was one of “misdirected aggression,” such as a stray cat outside the window, take steps to discourage the stray from entering your property. Products designed for this purpose are described in my article, “Commercial Cat Repellents.”

The most common cause of aggression in our house is of the misdirect variety, as stray cats or sometimes even raccoons, think nothing of strolling across our deck or staring back through the slider at our cats.

Tips:

1. Sometimes hissing loudly will be more effective than saying “no.” Hissing will re-awaken memories of mother cat’s discipline.

2. Do not attempt to scruff a cat in the middle of a violent fight between cats, as you may accidentally be scratched or bitten. It is best in those cases to separate the cats first by removing the least aggressive cat. If you have another family member available, have him take the other cat out of sight, then scruff the aggressor.

Another option is to throw a blanket, towel, pillow, or any other soft object at hand between the cats. The object can absorb the brunt of the aggressor cat’s clawing, to give time to get the other cat out of the area.

3. Although the scruffing hold can almost always be released within a minute, with a particularly angry and upset cat, it may be necessary to hold him to the floor for three to five minutes. Do not let his anger transfer to you, but talk to him calmly and soothingly. When you feel him relax, continue with Step 4.

4. It would be best to keep the cats separated for the remainder of the day.

5. Warning: Although veterinarians may pick up a cat by the scruff of the neck, notice that they also support the cat with the other hand. Never pick up an adult cat by the scruff, as it can do serious internal damage. Always support the full weight of the cat underneath its body with the other hand.

If your cat is scratching your furniture, shredding and destroying your home, you need to realize that your cat needs to scratch and climb. Scratching conditions your cat’s claws by removing the old layers of the nails. Scratching and climbing are highly enjoyable feline activities and are part of the essence of being a cat. Since your cat will want and need to scratch, provide her with a variety of scratching posts and teach her to use them. Until your cat can be trusted not to scratch and claw your furniture, she should not be allowed free run of your house when you are not there to supervise her. If your cat has a single favorite scratching site, this may be temporarily protected by covering it with some netting or loosely woven fabric. Cats do not like to snag their claws.

As a temporary measure you can confine your cat to an area where she cannot get into trouble. Confinement is not the answer to the problem, but it can be used to help train your cat to use a post when you are not home to actively train her. The confinement area should be well stocked with a variety of scratching and climbing posts. Since your cat will have no other choice of things to scratch, she will learn to scratch and climb her posts.

You can buy scratching posts at your pet store or you can build one yourself. Rough hewn 4×4’s set vertically with a few horizontal resting platforms are ideal. Whether buying carpet to cover a home made post or purchasing the finished item, remember to take along a comb to check that there are no loops in the carpeting which will snag the cat’s claws. You can also attach the carpeting underside-up, as the backing has a rough texture that cats enjoy.

Whether you are trying to prevent or cure a scratching problem, the single most important thing you can do is praise and reward your cat for scratching and climbing her post. Simply plonking down a few posts in front of your cat is not enough. You must specifically train her to scratch these items and these items alone. Read about how cats learn

If your cat is not interested in them, it’s up to you to show her how fun they can be. Put her favorite food treats on some of the platforms. Attach toys so they dangle down enticingly. Rub the post down with catnip. Most cats scratch immediately after waking while performing stretching exercises. As soon as your cat wakes up from a nap, call her to her post. Scratch the post at a point a couple of feet off the ground. Most cats reach up and stretch with their front paws on the post. Praise your cat profusely, especially if she makes scratching motions.

Don’t try to physically force your cat to scratch by holding her paws. She will resist and even dislike the post. The most effective method of teaching your cat to use her post is through lures and rewards. Always be on the alert to lavish your cat with praise, affection, attention and even a treat anytime she scratches or climbs her post without your encouragement. Never take this for granted.

Train your cat to scratch her post on command. Stand by the post with a treat in hand. Say, “Kitty scratch,” “Kitty climb,” or some other suitable request. Give your cat the treat when she comes running. If she is not interested, wait until dinner time and try again. Once your cat shows interest, hold the treat higher and higher up until she has to climb the post to get it. Place a treat on the highest platform and give her the request to “Climb.” In time she will learn to climb her post on command for treats, affection, attention and play time.

Once your cat understands that scratching and climbing her post is fun, rewarding and gains your enthusiastic approval, it is time to teach her not to scratch the drapes or furniture. If you catch her clawing at anything other than her post, immediately startle her with either a blast of water from a plant sprayer or a sudden loud noise. She will soon realize that unpleasant things happen when she tries to scratch the furniture, and she will remember how wonderful it is to scratch her post.

Litter box location

Although the principles are the same, there are slight differences between cats and kittens. The box for a kitten should be nearby. Kittens will not go far to potty. If the box is located a distance away, it may decide to potty along the way. It would help to assist the kitten into the box a few times and to familiarize and get acquainted with it. Some tips as to litter box location would include a quiet room in a private area where the kitten doesn’t eat or get scared from loud appliances or machinery. Confining the kitten initially in a room where the litter box is located may be helpful.

Litter box contents

Most cats and kitten are pretty finicky about where they potty. A litter box that is scented with deodorizers or perfumes may prevent the cat from going in the box. If this occurs, bad habits may develop, making it even more difficult to correct. In fact, the liter box contents don’t require anything fancy. The best materials are the inexpensive clay litter available in most pet stores. Several inches of this material in the box will allow your cat to bury their droppings.

Cleanliness

In addition to unscented litter, it’s extremely important to keep the litter box clean. All wet clumps of litter should be disposed of daily. The box itself should be emptied, washed and replenished once a week. Cleansers shouldn’t contain ammonia. If they do the cat or kitten may be discouraged from using the box.

Litter box size and type

The size of the box is dependent on the size of the cat. Kittens may require a smaller box, to be able to get in and out easily. A small box for a cat may prompt it to defecate and urinate outside of the box. Also used litter boxes should be avoided. Lingering scents from its previous owner may discourage potty use.

Rewards and treats

It may be helpful to reward the kitten for using the litter box to reinforce its use. This means that the owner needs to have an idea as to when the kitten needs to potty. Feeding at regular intervals will help in keeping the cat regular. A little exercise before and after the meal will aid in this endeavor. By peeking the kitten’s interest towards the litter box, by scratching it, she will usually be drawn towards it. This will make the cat aware of the box and its cleanliness for potty use. Once the cat uses the box, treats and rewards are in order to reinforce the idea of litter box use.

Kittens and cats are fairly easy to potty train, due to their nature. Attentiveness to cleanliness and some of the above tips will enable the cat to maintain good potty habits. Although it is possible for a trained cat to one day develop a problem, patience, understanding, cooperation and prompt action will be needed to correct any bad habit from becoming permanent.

If you have had a litter of kittens, it is your responsibility to start them off on the right foot where the litter box is concerned! Since it is part of a kitten’s natural instincts to dig, eliminate, and cover up, it’s much easier to train a young kitten than you think. As you begin to introduce solid foods at 3 ½ to 4 weeks old, sit a small litter box just outside their nesting area, and fill it with 3” of plain, clay litter.

It is important to use a small litter box so that your tiny kittens can climb in and out of it with ease, which they will start doing as soon as they can walk out of their nest on their own. You use clay litter because your kittens will taste test the litter, and clumpable litters can harm their digestive systems.

Scoop out the solids every day, and change the litter every three days for up to 3 kittens and every other day for more than 3 kittens.
Training Kittens 8 Weeks Old and Older

Most people adopt their kittens around 8 weeks old, and sometimes the kittens aren’t very well litter trained when they arrive. If you are lucky, your kitten will be litter trained, but they will still need a couple of days of adjustment before you can let them roam free in your home and consistently find the litter box.

Again, start with a smaller litter box for younger kittens and use only clay litter until they are about 6 months old. Put the litter box in the part of the house where your kitten will spend her time so that she can find it easily. You don’t want the kitten downstairs playing with the kids in the livingroom and the litter box to be on the second floor. If you do have different levels in your house, it is good to have a litter box on every floor.

When you are not available to keep an eye on your kitten, when you are sleeping or at work for example, confine your kitten in a smaller area with their litter box. Keep their food and water away from the litter box area because kittens will not normally eliminate near their food.

Tips to Avoid Litter Box Problems

Litter Box Do’s

* Have one litter box for every cat in your home, plus one
* Clean any accidents right away with products made to remove the scent of cat urine
* Avoid overcrowding (having too many cats causes extreme stress in cats, and that leads to litter box problems)
* Rule out health issues first if you begin to have litter box problems
* Have your cat spayed or neutered before they reach sexual maturity

Litter Box Don’ts

* Never punish your kitten for accidents
* Don’t use heavily perfumed litters
* Don’t change brands of litter suddenly (introduce new litter into old litter slowly by thirds)

And finally, don’t give up on your cat! If you are having trouble teaching your kitten how to use the litter box, check out Dr. Elsey’s Precious Cat products. This line of products is designed to attract your cat to the litter using herbs, and they offer solutions for special needs cats, like pregnant queens or elderly cats that have trouble in the litter box.

Batting at things or tackling moving objects is normal behaviour in cats. If your cat pounces on you or other members of the household, she may simply be bored and require more interactive playtime. However, unprovoked hissing, growling, scratching and biting can indicate a problem.

Causes of Aggression

Cats may be aggressive because they were not properly socialized as kittens or because they have been mistreated. Some cats are aggressive because they have inherited the tendency from a parent, and sometimes people train their cats to be aggressive without realizing it. Encouraging a kitten to pounce on your feet and bite your toes or tackle your wiggling hands may be cute, but when an adult cat does this, someone might end up in hospital with an infected bite wound. Cats may also become aggressive as a result of pain or anxiety. It is important to bring your cat in for a veterinary check-up to rule out any medical problems before attempting other treatments for aggression.

Aggression Toward Smaller Animals

Aggression toward smaller animals is a natural hunting behaviour, and it is unreasonable to expect cats to curtail these tendencies. If you don’t want your cat to catch birds and mice, putting a noisy bell on her collar will ensure that she rarely has a successful hunt.

Aggression Toward Cats and Dogs

Cats are highly territorial, both toward their own species and animals of other species. Also, dogs are natural predators of cats in the wild, and many cats retain the instinct to defend themselves aggressively. This defense instinct may also be applied to people. If you have a cat that is attacking other pets or people in your home, there are treatment options available.

Desensitization

There are strategies that can be used to help new pets grow comfortable with resident pets and vice versa. These include desensitization, which means allowing the two animals to gradually become accustomed first to one another’s scent and then to the sight of one another. This can be done by feeding two cats on either side of a closed door or confining a dog with a baby gate to one portion of the house until the two animals are comfortable in each other’s presence.
Conditioning

Conditioning involves associating one thing with another. For example, if you provide her favourite food whenever your aggressive cat is in the same room as the animal or person to whom she is showing aggression, she may come to associate the presence of that individual with the positive experience of good food. When using this strategy, it is important to ensure that other people and animals keep a respectful distance and don’t bother the cat while she is eating.

Reinforcement

Reinforcement involves providing rewards, which can be anything from verbal praise to pats to treats, when the cat curbs her aggressive response. When the cat is in the room with the person or animal that provokes her hostility, you can first calm her down by patting her and speaking in a soothing voice, and then offer the reward when she is behaving calmly.

Punishment

Punishment, which can be physical or verbal, actually increases fear and aggression in cats, and should be avoided. A cat that is punished in the presence of the animal or person to whom she shows aggression will associate that individual with negative experience and the hostility will be exacerbated. If your cat is scratching or biting, you can grab her gently by the scruff of the neck to pull her away and say “no,” but anything more forceful, such as hitting or shouting, will likely increase her aggression rather than diminish it.

Medication

There are a number of medications used to treat anxiety and aggression in cats, including tricyclic antidepressants, selective serotonin reuptake inhibitors (SSRIs) and benzodiazepines. These medications can also be used to treat other anxiety-induced behaviours, such as pulling out fur. However, they should only be used as a last resort, as they can have side effects and cats may become addicted to benzodiazepines. Medication is usually only used for a few months, though in some cases it is required for more than a year.

Consult a Veterinarian

Before implementing treatment for aggression, consult a veterinarian. Specific medical issues may be contributing to your cat’s aggression, so it is important to speak to a professional in order to develop the most effective treatment strategy.

References:

* Merck & Co., Inc., Eds. Cynthia M. Kahn, BA, MA & Scott Line, DVM, PhD, Dipl ACVB. (2007). The Merck/Merial Manual for Pet Health, Home Edition.
* Whiteley, E., Dr. (2008). “How to Solve Cat Behaviour Problems.” HowStuffWorks.com.