You cannot expect your cat to sleep 24 hours a day. He needs to play sometime. If you find his nightly play sessions bothersome, then make sure your cat plays earlier. If you do not provide him with some kind of daytime activity, he will spend the day asleep. Rather than letting your cat snooze all evening while you are watching Oprah or Jeopardy, turn off the tube, get down on the floor and play with your cat. Tie a feather or piece of crumpled paper to a length of string and run around the house dragging it behind. Train your cat to climb his scratching post; train him to fetch and run back and forth between you and a friend. Visit your local pet store and look for new and interesting toys for your cat. Make toys of your own. Most cats have a wonderful time rolling around inside a large, open paper bag or box sprinkled with catnip. The “Cat Dancer” toy is also extremely appealing to most cats. Try to tire out your cat early in the evening. This will greatly increase the likelihood that he will sleep at night.

The more regular you make the cat’s new routine, the quicker he will adjust. Schedule feedings and playtime at regular intervals that are appropriate for the schedule you wish your cat to keep.

Anytime during the day or evening when you see your cat sleeping – wake him up! Gently be a pest just like he is towards you at 3 in the morning. Don’t let him sleep. Insist that he play with you now. In 10 days to 2 weeks your cat will sleep all night long because he has been sleep deprived during the day and because he is content that his needs are being filled. It may take 10 days to 2 weeks to reset kitty’s internal clock so don’t be discouraged that during this time, even though you are doing every thing right, he will still automatically wake up or think he wants to play in the wee hours of the morning. Just wait it out. If you give up too soon, you will have to start all over again.

After you have provided an enjoyable and acceptable outlet for your cats stir crazy periods, it is time to teach him that bothering you by jumping on your face or meowing outside the bedroom door is one big mistake. Each time your cat bothers you, give him a quick squirt with a water sprayer that is kept on the bedside table. Use only plain water in the squirter. After only a couple of squirts, your cat will get the idea. If he is meowing outside the bedroom door, first reach for the water sprayer, quietly get out of bed and creep towards the door, then suddenly fling the door open, squirt the cat and then immediately shut the door. Try to stay alert for five minutes, waiting by the door with the water sprayer ready in case of a second attack.

Some cats actually enjoy being squirted in the face with water. If this is your cat, then obviously it’s silly to use a squirt bottle. Try to think of something the cat doesn’t like, such as a loud noise or a blast from a canister of compressed air used to dust of camera lenses. Often just the sound of the hissing air sends the cat fleeing.

If you think you can use the sneak attack portion of training without providing your cat with an alternative outlet for his activity needs, you’re in for a big, unpleasant surprise. Your cat will become frustrated and maybe even angry. You will create a problem far worse than the one that exists. Frustrated, angry cats often urinate all over the house and indulge in destructive behavior. So . . no cheating!

Some cat owners are familiar with this scene: the cat backs up toward a vertical surface, holds up its tail and sprays urine in several short bursts. That cat is not simply urinating outside his litter box, but rather marking territory with urine. The difference between regular urination and spraying is in the position and choice of location – when urinating, a cat uses a squatting position on horizontal surfaces.

Spraying is not a litter box problem. A cat can have a spraying problem while at the same time properly using his litter box for defecating and urinating. The distinction is important – spraying has different causes and needs to be dealt with differently.

Please note: cats may suffer from medical conditions that make them urinate outside the litter box. If you encounter any problem that involves urinating outside the litter box (spraying or otherwise), always consult your veterinarian! Some of these conditions may be life threatening if not treated in time.

Why Do Cats Spray?

Cats are territorial creatures. They may use a variety of signals to mark their territory and set clear boundaries to other cats. Feline marking codes include scratch marks, scent rubbed off their skin, uncovered feces, and urine sprayed in strategic locations.

It is perfectly normal for unaltered males to make territorial claims by spraying. This behavior begins with sexual maturity and is triggered by hormonal changes. With time, however, it can become an inherent part of the cat’s behavioral repertoire.

Females in heat also tend to spray. This is apparently a form of announcement. The female lets the males in her vicinity know that she’s in heat by releasing special scents in her urine and spraying it in key locations.

Spraying can occur even with neutered males and females. Some people prefer to wait and neuter a male cat after he has reached sexual maturity. By then, spraying may become a fixed behavior – the cat will spray simply out of habit.

Spraying is connected with territorial marking. A cat may sometimes begin to spray when he or she perceives a territorial threat. This threat may be a new cat or dog, or possibly feral cats that come near the house. Often, the threat is less obvious – the cat is generally insecure, or is overstressed for some reason, and reacts by spraying.
How to Deal with Spraying

There are several things you can do to try and solve the problem:

* The first thing you should do is have the cat examined by a vet. Any problem that involves changes in urinating habits may indicate one of several medical conditions that need immediate veterinary attention. Further actions should be taken only after the vet gives your cat a clean bill of health.
* If the cat is unaltered, you should get it neutered as soon as possible. In many cases, this will completely solve the problem.
* If you suspect that the reason for the spraying pattern is some perceived threat from another cat or dog, analyze the problem and try to accommodate your cat with the space and privacy it needs. If the problem has to do with cats that are outside the house, you should minimize your cat’s exposure to those cats.
* Sometimes spraying is a reaction to general stress not necessarily related to territorial issues. You should try to lower the cat’s stress by maintaining routine and keeping his environment relaxed and calm.
* Never punish your cat for spraying. Never hit the cat or rub its nose in the urine. Cats cannot be taught by punishment. In fact, punishing the cat will probably cause him more stress, thus making the problem worse.
* The smell of urine may encourage the cat to spray again on the same spot. You should clean the stain thoroughly by using special products that completely neutralize any odors rather than just covering them up. Avoid products that contain ammonia, since these may actually remind the cat of the smell of urine.
* There is a special product called Feliway, which can be very effective when dealing with problem spraying. Make sure you read all the instructions and use it properly to get the best results.
* If the problem persists, try to consult an animal behaviorist. Spraying can be a difficult problem to solve. It’s better to call in an expert quickly rather than let the problem get worse. Your vet can usually refer you to a local cat behaviorist. In some cases a behaviorist or a vet will recommend a course of medications to calm the cat down and reduce its stress level.

Scruffing should be reserved for especially egregious behavior such as physical aggression toward humans or another cat. I much prefer it to the common practice of using a spray bottle, which often results in a drenched, angry cat. Since the cat associates the spray bottle with the person holding it, he will only continue his misbehavior when you are absent.

Here’s How:

1. Firmly grasp the scruff (loose skin at the top of the neck) of the cat. It should be understood that by “firmly,” I do not mean to grab the cat roughly. The idea is to establish yourself as the dominant one, i.e., the “mother,” not to be seen as another aggressor.

2. Firmly press the cat down to the floor while sharply saying “no!” Again, be firm, but not rough with your handling of your cat. If you know how to make the sound, you can preface your “no!” with a hissing sound, much as the mother cat would do.

3. Hold the cat in that position until you feel and see him relax his muscles. Some cats will visibly relax, as my Jaspurr, pictured here on the right, does. While you are holding him, speak softly and calmly to him: “You’re my good boy.” “I love my kitty.”

4. Release your hold on the cat, then pet him and tell him “good boy.” The idea is to discipline him without withholding your love. Jealousy is often the motivator for cats’ aggression. The dominant cat in a household may always be looking out to protect his or her status as “top cat.” Scolding him after the fact serves no purpose except to reinforce his anger.

5. If the precipitating event to the aggression was one of “misdirected aggression,” such as a stray cat outside the window, take steps to discourage the stray from entering your property. Products designed for this purpose are described in my article, “Commercial Cat Repellents.”

The most common cause of aggression in our house is of the misdirect variety, as stray cats or sometimes even raccoons, think nothing of strolling across our deck or staring back through the slider at our cats.

Tips:

1. Sometimes hissing loudly will be more effective than saying “no.” Hissing will re-awaken memories of mother cat’s discipline.

2. Do not attempt to scruff a cat in the middle of a violent fight between cats, as you may accidentally be scratched or bitten. It is best in those cases to separate the cats first by removing the least aggressive cat. If you have another family member available, have him take the other cat out of sight, then scruff the aggressor.

Another option is to throw a blanket, towel, pillow, or any other soft object at hand between the cats. The object can absorb the brunt of the aggressor cat’s clawing, to give time to get the other cat out of the area.

3. Although the scruffing hold can almost always be released within a minute, with a particularly angry and upset cat, it may be necessary to hold him to the floor for three to five minutes. Do not let his anger transfer to you, but talk to him calmly and soothingly. When you feel him relax, continue with Step 4.

4. It would be best to keep the cats separated for the remainder of the day.

5. Warning: Although veterinarians may pick up a cat by the scruff of the neck, notice that they also support the cat with the other hand. Never pick up an adult cat by the scruff, as it can do serious internal damage. Always support the full weight of the cat underneath its body with the other hand.